I forgot to mention that Cartago, Costa Rica has a worthwhile Basilica that can be visited. Illuminated by a spectrum of lights, the night brings about its most beautiful display. We crossed the border in Nicaragua once again and in order to make good time, we headed to the northern part, known as Matagalpa. Matagalpa is less than 100 km from the border of Honduras and comfortably situated at a higher elevation, making a/c a non-necessity. We spent two nights at a hotel adjacent to the local park square. We also headed to a higher finca, Selva Negra, run by Germans whole settled here over 100 years ago. They managed to create a peaceful running farm with German and Dutch style houses, dairy cows, fruit trees, and a small pond with swans. I thought that we may have been in the “Hansel and Gretel” book. Leighton certainly felt at home. We hiked on the provided trails, both steep and flat. The woods provided observation opportunities for various wildlife such as toucans and monkeys.
We then took the easy Honduras border crossing, and learned that the country has quite a bit to offer. Heading straight to Lago de Yajoa, we spent a few nights at the D&D bed and breakfast. This establishment consists of several huts, swimming pool, Oregonian beer brewed in Honduras, and lush gardens. We met a few new friends from the US and Australia and headed straight to the caves. After haggling to pay $2 a piece, we managed to get the guard to grant our permission to spend unlimited amounts of time in the caves. Generally they only let you spend 30 minutes in them and go only a bit past where the lights are present. However, we had headlamps and were thankful for the opportunity to explore such an extensive Karst cave system. Stalagmites and stalactites were everywhere. When the lights disappeared, we pulled out our source of illumination and crawled over and under small holes leading to larger rooms with sticky clay and gigantic formations. The cave was in Taulabe, just a few miles away from the lake.
We also managed to visit the Cerro Azul Meamber Parque Nacional in Lago de Yajoa. This park is very undeveloped which adds to its attraction. Although there are very few trails, we wandered up a beautiful clay walkway and across some rivers to check out the vista and local habitation of the area. Definitely a worthwhile place to return. Actually, I think Panama and Honduras are my two favorite countries on this trip so far. Guatemala would rank up there, except that it has a bit of infrastructure and safety concerns that need to be addressed.
We are headed out to Tikal, so I don’t have much more time to write, but I promise that a more thorough update will come soon. And Texas folks, we may be headed your way at the end of this trip, so keep your eyes out. We might also come back up through Western Mexico….time will tell.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Friday, February 13, 2009
Fare Thee Well Panama.....
We haven't posted for a while so I will try to finish-up talking about Panama by memory before commenting further on our more recent travels.
Our next stop after Boquete was Panama City, a fine city (the biggest in Central America??). We were able to find affordable and safe accommodations just outside the central city in the old U.S. military base Fort Clayton near the Miraflores Lochs. Panama city is the most modernized place we have visited on the whole trip. We did some shopping at the mall, considered going to the cinema (in English), and procured genuine Toyota replacement parts while there. We also ate some wonderful sushi - and we didn't skimp on the saki either!
While in the megalopolis I made good on the opportunity to purchase a new latch for the rear gate. It had been acting up by not wanting to latch and randomly popping open while in transit, so I said "enough is enough" and popped for the $100 part. It proved to be a real bear to swap out since the bolts securing it were loc-tited in....and there was no torch anywhere to be found seemingly in the whole country. I broke two of the three bolts while removing them, but was able to have one of the broken studs removed by a mechanic in the next town we stayed in, David, Panama.
The highlight of Panama for me was probably the Canal. The scale of the operations and the overall hugeness of the project was awe inducing. The French began digging the Canal in the late 19th Century and the operations were overtaken and finished by the Americans. Thousands of people lost their lives for the cause - more due to disease than to unsafe construction practices. Anyhow, not much can match the feeling of seeing a cargo freighter heaping with containers being lifted 27 feet in less than five minutes - it is simply amazing. This process is repeated to lift the ship a total of 54 feet for it's sail across the Continental Divide. It's a lifetime must-see for the engineering types amongst you...
Earlier in our Panama stay, at the hot springs near Boquete where Steph got her leaches, we had met up with the proprietor of a hostel and befriended him. He invited us to stay with him if we ever passed through David, and on our way back to Costa Rica we took him up on the offer. The only thing that made our private room with A/C better was the pool in his garden. It was a welcome reunion. The restaurant next door provided us with dinner both nights we were in town - tipicos plates and ceviche for less than $2 a plate! The conch ceviche was a real highlight.
As I mentioned earlier we had a mechanic attempt to remove the broken tailgate latch bolts while in town. He was a very friendly guy with scripture written on his shirt - and he made sure that both myself and "my sister" knew Jesus before he would turn his attention to our vehicle. Since a torch could again not be found anywhere in town the mechanic resorted to grasping at the end of the broken end of the bolt with a channel-lock pillars (why didn't I think of that??? LOL). He did not seem to have the same fear of rounding off the remaining nub of a bolt like I did (perhaps since it wasn't his truck??), and simply reefed at it for a half an hour or so; progressively rounding the bolt down to almost nothing. As I was telling him to quit - that the bolt just would not come out and I would have to deal with that (in an attempt to save something to grab should I ever find a torch to break the thread locker loose) - he got it to budge and eventually got it out. Central American mechanics - cheap rates, but be very careful because you certainly get what you pay for....
And that pretty much wraps up our stay in Panama, but.....
While I am certainly no “expert” on Central America I have now spent some time in all of it’s countries save for Belize. Panama is far-and-away my favorite country. Why is Panama my favorite country in Central America? I’ll tell you.
The topography of Panama is absolutely beautiful. It is similar to Nicaragua and Costa Rica. There are rolling hills and mountains everywhere covered with lush green vegetation. Waterfalls and streams are abundant. The majority of the country is either rural or wild.
The roads in Panama are the best in Central America. The Panamerican Highway is a divided highway the whole way to Panama City facilitating direct and hassle-free driving. Even the secondary roads are maintained in great condition allowing quick and easy access to either coast.
Panama is clean. There are very few roadside garbage fires – certainly not the norm for Central America. The tap water is potable in all but the most remote locales – meaning salads and ice may both be enjoyed without risk of unpleasant gastro-intestinal conflicts.
Good rooms with air conditioning (essential near the coasts), cable TV (a nice luxury we don’t even have at home), and WiFi were both readily available and within our budget. Prior to Panama the internet accessibility had been slow when available – in the overpriced tourist mecca that is Costa Rica the internet service is terribly slow.
Panama gets two thumbs way up!!!!
Our next stop after Boquete was Panama City, a fine city (the biggest in Central America??). We were able to find affordable and safe accommodations just outside the central city in the old U.S. military base Fort Clayton near the Miraflores Lochs. Panama city is the most modernized place we have visited on the whole trip. We did some shopping at the mall, considered going to the cinema (in English), and procured genuine Toyota replacement parts while there. We also ate some wonderful sushi - and we didn't skimp on the saki either!
While in the megalopolis I made good on the opportunity to purchase a new latch for the rear gate. It had been acting up by not wanting to latch and randomly popping open while in transit, so I said "enough is enough" and popped for the $100 part. It proved to be a real bear to swap out since the bolts securing it were loc-tited in....and there was no torch anywhere to be found seemingly in the whole country. I broke two of the three bolts while removing them, but was able to have one of the broken studs removed by a mechanic in the next town we stayed in, David, Panama.
The highlight of Panama for me was probably the Canal. The scale of the operations and the overall hugeness of the project was awe inducing. The French began digging the Canal in the late 19th Century and the operations were overtaken and finished by the Americans. Thousands of people lost their lives for the cause - more due to disease than to unsafe construction practices. Anyhow, not much can match the feeling of seeing a cargo freighter heaping with containers being lifted 27 feet in less than five minutes - it is simply amazing. This process is repeated to lift the ship a total of 54 feet for it's sail across the Continental Divide. It's a lifetime must-see for the engineering types amongst you...
Earlier in our Panama stay, at the hot springs near Boquete where Steph got her leaches, we had met up with the proprietor of a hostel and befriended him. He invited us to stay with him if we ever passed through David, and on our way back to Costa Rica we took him up on the offer. The only thing that made our private room with A/C better was the pool in his garden. It was a welcome reunion. The restaurant next door provided us with dinner both nights we were in town - tipicos plates and ceviche for less than $2 a plate! The conch ceviche was a real highlight.
As I mentioned earlier we had a mechanic attempt to remove the broken tailgate latch bolts while in town. He was a very friendly guy with scripture written on his shirt - and he made sure that both myself and "my sister" knew Jesus before he would turn his attention to our vehicle. Since a torch could again not be found anywhere in town the mechanic resorted to grasping at the end of the broken end of the bolt with a channel-lock pillars (why didn't I think of that??? LOL). He did not seem to have the same fear of rounding off the remaining nub of a bolt like I did (perhaps since it wasn't his truck??), and simply reefed at it for a half an hour or so; progressively rounding the bolt down to almost nothing. As I was telling him to quit - that the bolt just would not come out and I would have to deal with that (in an attempt to save something to grab should I ever find a torch to break the thread locker loose) - he got it to budge and eventually got it out. Central American mechanics - cheap rates, but be very careful because you certainly get what you pay for....
And that pretty much wraps up our stay in Panama, but.....
While I am certainly no “expert” on Central America I have now spent some time in all of it’s countries save for Belize. Panama is far-and-away my favorite country. Why is Panama my favorite country in Central America? I’ll tell you.
The topography of Panama is absolutely beautiful. It is similar to Nicaragua and Costa Rica. There are rolling hills and mountains everywhere covered with lush green vegetation. Waterfalls and streams are abundant. The majority of the country is either rural or wild.
The roads in Panama are the best in Central America. The Panamerican Highway is a divided highway the whole way to Panama City facilitating direct and hassle-free driving. Even the secondary roads are maintained in great condition allowing quick and easy access to either coast.
Panama is clean. There are very few roadside garbage fires – certainly not the norm for Central America. The tap water is potable in all but the most remote locales – meaning salads and ice may both be enjoyed without risk of unpleasant gastro-intestinal conflicts.
Good rooms with air conditioning (essential near the coasts), cable TV (a nice luxury we don’t even have at home), and WiFi were both readily available and within our budget. Prior to Panama the internet accessibility had been slow when available – in the overpriced tourist mecca that is Costa Rica the internet service is terribly slow.
Panama gets two thumbs way up!!!!
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Ticks, crabs, and so much more!
February 4, 2009
As I will let Leighton talk about the rest of Panama, I will start this blog with stories of Costa Rica. We are currently near Liberia, Costa Rica. We had hoped to cross the border back into Nicaragua today, but alas we have met the corrupt cops of Costa Rica. After two months in Central America, I come to the conclusion that the cops throughout these countries are only “out for themselves.” They do not even want other cops to see them take bribes, because this would force them to share the earnings. Yes, I was pulled over for driving and Leighton’s name was the sole name on the permit, thus prohibiting me to drive. However, this infraction is generally overlooked. Not by these cops. They detained us until we gave in and gave over a small amount of cash. As a side note, Costa Rica is by far the most expensive and American country of the region. However, we have made the most out of it…and hope to escape to cheaper countries by tomorrow.
Upon our entry into Costa Rica, we drove to Parque Nacional Corcovado. This is claimed by many to be the most “biologically intense location on earth.” It contains hundreds of species of flora and fauna. Needless to say, I was satisfied. We observed all animals from Scarlet Macaws to Spider Monekys to Tamandua Anteater to Coati and Poisonous Dart Frogs. Leighton has become a genius with the picture placement on this website, so hopefully he will soon have more up. As a bit of information for the folks that may visit this region, you do not generally need prior reservations to enter the park. Many websites state that there is very limited camping, or you need a guide, which costs $300. This is all untrue. We paid the $10 entry fee to enter the park and $4 to camp for each day. We arrived in Puerto Jiminez and set up the permits with the Park office. We then drove to Frente Corcovado Lodge and paid $15 for a night and left our car for three days. In the morning, we rose with the light (and sweat) and headed towards Los Patos, the park entrance. After 7 km and many river crossings (none too difficult), we arrived at Los Patos. The rangers checked our permits and we continued on our way. Arriba y abajo we hiked, while listening to the sounds of locusts, thousands of them. The day proved to be a warm one, and we were drenched after 27 km. We camped at Sirena, and slept for maybe one hour due to the heat. The heat soaked our bodies, eventually causing us to feel a bit chilly, but it was so humid that we couldn’t even tell what was happening. Sirena has a covered deck for camping as well as a runway for those folks that feel like they need to be air-lifted out of the park. The beach is nearby, which we readily used to cool off our bodies.
On day two of the excursion, we hiked from Sirena to Carate, and then took a bus to Puerto Jiminez where we lavished ourselves with a beachfront room and AC!! The second day of travel was much lighter than the first. The main challenge was that a large portion of the hike was along the beach, thus preventing much sun protection. However, the beach was absolutely gorgeous! So secluded, with coves, dark and light sand, various crabs and herons, it was a delight to view. On our second day, we witnessed an anteater slapping a tree with his claws, just like a black bear! The coati rummaged through various articles on the ground for forage material. And skinks also darted up trees and into the brush as we passed. The trip to Corcovado was definitely worth the effort! The only downfalls were the heat (but hey, we needed a little challenge, right?) and the massive quantity of ticks that attached themselves to every part of our bodies. I can truthfully say that I have never had that many ticks on me, ever. I would say that there were probably somewhere around 60 by the end of day two. Leighton probably had about the same amount.
After a few days in Corcovado, we quickly sprinted up to Cartago, a cooler town with all amenities. And today, we are here. That’s about it for now. Oh, but I must get a pineapple before we leave Costa Rica—land of the BEST pineapples ever!! And, side note, we are spending the night in a Best Western with a large swimming pool (piscina) and casino. Don’t worry mom, I used my haggling skills. Pura vida!
As I will let Leighton talk about the rest of Panama, I will start this blog with stories of Costa Rica. We are currently near Liberia, Costa Rica. We had hoped to cross the border back into Nicaragua today, but alas we have met the corrupt cops of Costa Rica. After two months in Central America, I come to the conclusion that the cops throughout these countries are only “out for themselves.” They do not even want other cops to see them take bribes, because this would force them to share the earnings. Yes, I was pulled over for driving and Leighton’s name was the sole name on the permit, thus prohibiting me to drive. However, this infraction is generally overlooked. Not by these cops. They detained us until we gave in and gave over a small amount of cash. As a side note, Costa Rica is by far the most expensive and American country of the region. However, we have made the most out of it…and hope to escape to cheaper countries by tomorrow.
Upon our entry into Costa Rica, we drove to Parque Nacional Corcovado. This is claimed by many to be the most “biologically intense location on earth.” It contains hundreds of species of flora and fauna. Needless to say, I was satisfied. We observed all animals from Scarlet Macaws to Spider Monekys to Tamandua Anteater to Coati and Poisonous Dart Frogs. Leighton has become a genius with the picture placement on this website, so hopefully he will soon have more up. As a bit of information for the folks that may visit this region, you do not generally need prior reservations to enter the park. Many websites state that there is very limited camping, or you need a guide, which costs $300. This is all untrue. We paid the $10 entry fee to enter the park and $4 to camp for each day. We arrived in Puerto Jiminez and set up the permits with the Park office. We then drove to Frente Corcovado Lodge and paid $15 for a night and left our car for three days. In the morning, we rose with the light (and sweat) and headed towards Los Patos, the park entrance. After 7 km and many river crossings (none too difficult), we arrived at Los Patos. The rangers checked our permits and we continued on our way. Arriba y abajo we hiked, while listening to the sounds of locusts, thousands of them. The day proved to be a warm one, and we were drenched after 27 km. We camped at Sirena, and slept for maybe one hour due to the heat. The heat soaked our bodies, eventually causing us to feel a bit chilly, but it was so humid that we couldn’t even tell what was happening. Sirena has a covered deck for camping as well as a runway for those folks that feel like they need to be air-lifted out of the park. The beach is nearby, which we readily used to cool off our bodies.
On day two of the excursion, we hiked from Sirena to Carate, and then took a bus to Puerto Jiminez where we lavished ourselves with a beachfront room and AC!! The second day of travel was much lighter than the first. The main challenge was that a large portion of the hike was along the beach, thus preventing much sun protection. However, the beach was absolutely gorgeous! So secluded, with coves, dark and light sand, various crabs and herons, it was a delight to view. On our second day, we witnessed an anteater slapping a tree with his claws, just like a black bear! The coati rummaged through various articles on the ground for forage material. And skinks also darted up trees and into the brush as we passed. The trip to Corcovado was definitely worth the effort! The only downfalls were the heat (but hey, we needed a little challenge, right?) and the massive quantity of ticks that attached themselves to every part of our bodies. I can truthfully say that I have never had that many ticks on me, ever. I would say that there were probably somewhere around 60 by the end of day two. Leighton probably had about the same amount.
After a few days in Corcovado, we quickly sprinted up to Cartago, a cooler town with all amenities. And today, we are here. That’s about it for now. Oh, but I must get a pineapple before we leave Costa Rica—land of the BEST pineapples ever!! And, side note, we are spending the night in a Best Western with a large swimming pool (piscina) and casino. Don’t worry mom, I used my haggling skills. Pura vida!
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Overdue Picture Post
We have been having some trouble uploading pictures to the blog but I seem to have it working now so that will be the focus of this post.
Here's one of Steph and I out for a day of sailing and snorkeling in Bocas del Toro, Costa Rica. It was a really nice day!
Steph climbing the basaltic wall in Boquete, Panama. I think they rated this route a 5.9 - it was probably close, hard for me to say - it had been a while since either of us were on a wall, but we both had a great time and climbed a few routes.
Here's me at the crux move of this one - 5.10c they said. I tried it about seven times and couldn't clear it. It was fun, but the holds were mostly upside-down there....too hard for me right now.
You can get a feel for the wall here. It was different than anything either of us have ever climbed.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)