I forgot to mention that Cartago, Costa Rica has a worthwhile Basilica that can be visited. Illuminated by a spectrum of lights, the night brings about its most beautiful display. We crossed the border in Nicaragua once again and in order to make good time, we headed to the northern part, known as Matagalpa. Matagalpa is less than 100 km from the border of Honduras and comfortably situated at a higher elevation, making a/c a non-necessity. We spent two nights at a hotel adjacent to the local park square. We also headed to a higher finca, Selva Negra, run by Germans whole settled here over 100 years ago. They managed to create a peaceful running farm with German and Dutch style houses, dairy cows, fruit trees, and a small pond with swans. I thought that we may have been in the “Hansel and Gretel” book. Leighton certainly felt at home. We hiked on the provided trails, both steep and flat. The woods provided observation opportunities for various wildlife such as toucans and monkeys.
We then took the easy Honduras border crossing, and learned that the country has quite a bit to offer. Heading straight to Lago de Yajoa, we spent a few nights at the D&D bed and breakfast. This establishment consists of several huts, swimming pool, Oregonian beer brewed in Honduras, and lush gardens. We met a few new friends from the US and Australia and headed straight to the caves. After haggling to pay $2 a piece, we managed to get the guard to grant our permission to spend unlimited amounts of time in the caves. Generally they only let you spend 30 minutes in them and go only a bit past where the lights are present. However, we had headlamps and were thankful for the opportunity to explore such an extensive Karst cave system. Stalagmites and stalactites were everywhere. When the lights disappeared, we pulled out our source of illumination and crawled over and under small holes leading to larger rooms with sticky clay and gigantic formations. The cave was in Taulabe, just a few miles away from the lake.
We also managed to visit the Cerro Azul Meamber Parque Nacional in Lago de Yajoa. This park is very undeveloped which adds to its attraction. Although there are very few trails, we wandered up a beautiful clay walkway and across some rivers to check out the vista and local habitation of the area. Definitely a worthwhile place to return. Actually, I think Panama and Honduras are my two favorite countries on this trip so far. Guatemala would rank up there, except that it has a bit of infrastructure and safety concerns that need to be addressed.
We are headed out to Tikal, so I don’t have much more time to write, but I promise that a more thorough update will come soon. And Texas folks, we may be headed your way at the end of this trip, so keep your eyes out. We might also come back up through Western Mexico….time will tell.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Friday, February 13, 2009
Fare Thee Well Panama.....
We haven't posted for a while so I will try to finish-up talking about Panama by memory before commenting further on our more recent travels.
Our next stop after Boquete was Panama City, a fine city (the biggest in Central America??). We were able to find affordable and safe accommodations just outside the central city in the old U.S. military base Fort Clayton near the Miraflores Lochs. Panama city is the most modernized place we have visited on the whole trip. We did some shopping at the mall, considered going to the cinema (in English), and procured genuine Toyota replacement parts while there. We also ate some wonderful sushi - and we didn't skimp on the saki either!
While in the megalopolis I made good on the opportunity to purchase a new latch for the rear gate. It had been acting up by not wanting to latch and randomly popping open while in transit, so I said "enough is enough" and popped for the $100 part. It proved to be a real bear to swap out since the bolts securing it were loc-tited in....and there was no torch anywhere to be found seemingly in the whole country. I broke two of the three bolts while removing them, but was able to have one of the broken studs removed by a mechanic in the next town we stayed in, David, Panama.
The highlight of Panama for me was probably the Canal. The scale of the operations and the overall hugeness of the project was awe inducing. The French began digging the Canal in the late 19th Century and the operations were overtaken and finished by the Americans. Thousands of people lost their lives for the cause - more due to disease than to unsafe construction practices. Anyhow, not much can match the feeling of seeing a cargo freighter heaping with containers being lifted 27 feet in less than five minutes - it is simply amazing. This process is repeated to lift the ship a total of 54 feet for it's sail across the Continental Divide. It's a lifetime must-see for the engineering types amongst you...
Earlier in our Panama stay, at the hot springs near Boquete where Steph got her leaches, we had met up with the proprietor of a hostel and befriended him. He invited us to stay with him if we ever passed through David, and on our way back to Costa Rica we took him up on the offer. The only thing that made our private room with A/C better was the pool in his garden. It was a welcome reunion. The restaurant next door provided us with dinner both nights we were in town - tipicos plates and ceviche for less than $2 a plate! The conch ceviche was a real highlight.
As I mentioned earlier we had a mechanic attempt to remove the broken tailgate latch bolts while in town. He was a very friendly guy with scripture written on his shirt - and he made sure that both myself and "my sister" knew Jesus before he would turn his attention to our vehicle. Since a torch could again not be found anywhere in town the mechanic resorted to grasping at the end of the broken end of the bolt with a channel-lock pillars (why didn't I think of that??? LOL). He did not seem to have the same fear of rounding off the remaining nub of a bolt like I did (perhaps since it wasn't his truck??), and simply reefed at it for a half an hour or so; progressively rounding the bolt down to almost nothing. As I was telling him to quit - that the bolt just would not come out and I would have to deal with that (in an attempt to save something to grab should I ever find a torch to break the thread locker loose) - he got it to budge and eventually got it out. Central American mechanics - cheap rates, but be very careful because you certainly get what you pay for....
And that pretty much wraps up our stay in Panama, but.....
While I am certainly no “expert” on Central America I have now spent some time in all of it’s countries save for Belize. Panama is far-and-away my favorite country. Why is Panama my favorite country in Central America? I’ll tell you.
The topography of Panama is absolutely beautiful. It is similar to Nicaragua and Costa Rica. There are rolling hills and mountains everywhere covered with lush green vegetation. Waterfalls and streams are abundant. The majority of the country is either rural or wild.
The roads in Panama are the best in Central America. The Panamerican Highway is a divided highway the whole way to Panama City facilitating direct and hassle-free driving. Even the secondary roads are maintained in great condition allowing quick and easy access to either coast.
Panama is clean. There are very few roadside garbage fires – certainly not the norm for Central America. The tap water is potable in all but the most remote locales – meaning salads and ice may both be enjoyed without risk of unpleasant gastro-intestinal conflicts.
Good rooms with air conditioning (essential near the coasts), cable TV (a nice luxury we don’t even have at home), and WiFi were both readily available and within our budget. Prior to Panama the internet accessibility had been slow when available – in the overpriced tourist mecca that is Costa Rica the internet service is terribly slow.
Panama gets two thumbs way up!!!!
Our next stop after Boquete was Panama City, a fine city (the biggest in Central America??). We were able to find affordable and safe accommodations just outside the central city in the old U.S. military base Fort Clayton near the Miraflores Lochs. Panama city is the most modernized place we have visited on the whole trip. We did some shopping at the mall, considered going to the cinema (in English), and procured genuine Toyota replacement parts while there. We also ate some wonderful sushi - and we didn't skimp on the saki either!
While in the megalopolis I made good on the opportunity to purchase a new latch for the rear gate. It had been acting up by not wanting to latch and randomly popping open while in transit, so I said "enough is enough" and popped for the $100 part. It proved to be a real bear to swap out since the bolts securing it were loc-tited in....and there was no torch anywhere to be found seemingly in the whole country. I broke two of the three bolts while removing them, but was able to have one of the broken studs removed by a mechanic in the next town we stayed in, David, Panama.
The highlight of Panama for me was probably the Canal. The scale of the operations and the overall hugeness of the project was awe inducing. The French began digging the Canal in the late 19th Century and the operations were overtaken and finished by the Americans. Thousands of people lost their lives for the cause - more due to disease than to unsafe construction practices. Anyhow, not much can match the feeling of seeing a cargo freighter heaping with containers being lifted 27 feet in less than five minutes - it is simply amazing. This process is repeated to lift the ship a total of 54 feet for it's sail across the Continental Divide. It's a lifetime must-see for the engineering types amongst you...
Earlier in our Panama stay, at the hot springs near Boquete where Steph got her leaches, we had met up with the proprietor of a hostel and befriended him. He invited us to stay with him if we ever passed through David, and on our way back to Costa Rica we took him up on the offer. The only thing that made our private room with A/C better was the pool in his garden. It was a welcome reunion. The restaurant next door provided us with dinner both nights we were in town - tipicos plates and ceviche for less than $2 a plate! The conch ceviche was a real highlight.
As I mentioned earlier we had a mechanic attempt to remove the broken tailgate latch bolts while in town. He was a very friendly guy with scripture written on his shirt - and he made sure that both myself and "my sister" knew Jesus before he would turn his attention to our vehicle. Since a torch could again not be found anywhere in town the mechanic resorted to grasping at the end of the broken end of the bolt with a channel-lock pillars (why didn't I think of that??? LOL). He did not seem to have the same fear of rounding off the remaining nub of a bolt like I did (perhaps since it wasn't his truck??), and simply reefed at it for a half an hour or so; progressively rounding the bolt down to almost nothing. As I was telling him to quit - that the bolt just would not come out and I would have to deal with that (in an attempt to save something to grab should I ever find a torch to break the thread locker loose) - he got it to budge and eventually got it out. Central American mechanics - cheap rates, but be very careful because you certainly get what you pay for....
And that pretty much wraps up our stay in Panama, but.....
While I am certainly no “expert” on Central America I have now spent some time in all of it’s countries save for Belize. Panama is far-and-away my favorite country. Why is Panama my favorite country in Central America? I’ll tell you.
The topography of Panama is absolutely beautiful. It is similar to Nicaragua and Costa Rica. There are rolling hills and mountains everywhere covered with lush green vegetation. Waterfalls and streams are abundant. The majority of the country is either rural or wild.
The roads in Panama are the best in Central America. The Panamerican Highway is a divided highway the whole way to Panama City facilitating direct and hassle-free driving. Even the secondary roads are maintained in great condition allowing quick and easy access to either coast.
Panama is clean. There are very few roadside garbage fires – certainly not the norm for Central America. The tap water is potable in all but the most remote locales – meaning salads and ice may both be enjoyed without risk of unpleasant gastro-intestinal conflicts.
Good rooms with air conditioning (essential near the coasts), cable TV (a nice luxury we don’t even have at home), and WiFi were both readily available and within our budget. Prior to Panama the internet accessibility had been slow when available – in the overpriced tourist mecca that is Costa Rica the internet service is terribly slow.
Panama gets two thumbs way up!!!!
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Ticks, crabs, and so much more!
February 4, 2009
As I will let Leighton talk about the rest of Panama, I will start this blog with stories of Costa Rica. We are currently near Liberia, Costa Rica. We had hoped to cross the border back into Nicaragua today, but alas we have met the corrupt cops of Costa Rica. After two months in Central America, I come to the conclusion that the cops throughout these countries are only “out for themselves.” They do not even want other cops to see them take bribes, because this would force them to share the earnings. Yes, I was pulled over for driving and Leighton’s name was the sole name on the permit, thus prohibiting me to drive. However, this infraction is generally overlooked. Not by these cops. They detained us until we gave in and gave over a small amount of cash. As a side note, Costa Rica is by far the most expensive and American country of the region. However, we have made the most out of it…and hope to escape to cheaper countries by tomorrow.
Upon our entry into Costa Rica, we drove to Parque Nacional Corcovado. This is claimed by many to be the most “biologically intense location on earth.” It contains hundreds of species of flora and fauna. Needless to say, I was satisfied. We observed all animals from Scarlet Macaws to Spider Monekys to Tamandua Anteater to Coati and Poisonous Dart Frogs. Leighton has become a genius with the picture placement on this website, so hopefully he will soon have more up. As a bit of information for the folks that may visit this region, you do not generally need prior reservations to enter the park. Many websites state that there is very limited camping, or you need a guide, which costs $300. This is all untrue. We paid the $10 entry fee to enter the park and $4 to camp for each day. We arrived in Puerto Jiminez and set up the permits with the Park office. We then drove to Frente Corcovado Lodge and paid $15 for a night and left our car for three days. In the morning, we rose with the light (and sweat) and headed towards Los Patos, the park entrance. After 7 km and many river crossings (none too difficult), we arrived at Los Patos. The rangers checked our permits and we continued on our way. Arriba y abajo we hiked, while listening to the sounds of locusts, thousands of them. The day proved to be a warm one, and we were drenched after 27 km. We camped at Sirena, and slept for maybe one hour due to the heat. The heat soaked our bodies, eventually causing us to feel a bit chilly, but it was so humid that we couldn’t even tell what was happening. Sirena has a covered deck for camping as well as a runway for those folks that feel like they need to be air-lifted out of the park. The beach is nearby, which we readily used to cool off our bodies.
On day two of the excursion, we hiked from Sirena to Carate, and then took a bus to Puerto Jiminez where we lavished ourselves with a beachfront room and AC!! The second day of travel was much lighter than the first. The main challenge was that a large portion of the hike was along the beach, thus preventing much sun protection. However, the beach was absolutely gorgeous! So secluded, with coves, dark and light sand, various crabs and herons, it was a delight to view. On our second day, we witnessed an anteater slapping a tree with his claws, just like a black bear! The coati rummaged through various articles on the ground for forage material. And skinks also darted up trees and into the brush as we passed. The trip to Corcovado was definitely worth the effort! The only downfalls were the heat (but hey, we needed a little challenge, right?) and the massive quantity of ticks that attached themselves to every part of our bodies. I can truthfully say that I have never had that many ticks on me, ever. I would say that there were probably somewhere around 60 by the end of day two. Leighton probably had about the same amount.
After a few days in Corcovado, we quickly sprinted up to Cartago, a cooler town with all amenities. And today, we are here. That’s about it for now. Oh, but I must get a pineapple before we leave Costa Rica—land of the BEST pineapples ever!! And, side note, we are spending the night in a Best Western with a large swimming pool (piscina) and casino. Don’t worry mom, I used my haggling skills. Pura vida!
As I will let Leighton talk about the rest of Panama, I will start this blog with stories of Costa Rica. We are currently near Liberia, Costa Rica. We had hoped to cross the border back into Nicaragua today, but alas we have met the corrupt cops of Costa Rica. After two months in Central America, I come to the conclusion that the cops throughout these countries are only “out for themselves.” They do not even want other cops to see them take bribes, because this would force them to share the earnings. Yes, I was pulled over for driving and Leighton’s name was the sole name on the permit, thus prohibiting me to drive. However, this infraction is generally overlooked. Not by these cops. They detained us until we gave in and gave over a small amount of cash. As a side note, Costa Rica is by far the most expensive and American country of the region. However, we have made the most out of it…and hope to escape to cheaper countries by tomorrow.
Upon our entry into Costa Rica, we drove to Parque Nacional Corcovado. This is claimed by many to be the most “biologically intense location on earth.” It contains hundreds of species of flora and fauna. Needless to say, I was satisfied. We observed all animals from Scarlet Macaws to Spider Monekys to Tamandua Anteater to Coati and Poisonous Dart Frogs. Leighton has become a genius with the picture placement on this website, so hopefully he will soon have more up. As a bit of information for the folks that may visit this region, you do not generally need prior reservations to enter the park. Many websites state that there is very limited camping, or you need a guide, which costs $300. This is all untrue. We paid the $10 entry fee to enter the park and $4 to camp for each day. We arrived in Puerto Jiminez and set up the permits with the Park office. We then drove to Frente Corcovado Lodge and paid $15 for a night and left our car for three days. In the morning, we rose with the light (and sweat) and headed towards Los Patos, the park entrance. After 7 km and many river crossings (none too difficult), we arrived at Los Patos. The rangers checked our permits and we continued on our way. Arriba y abajo we hiked, while listening to the sounds of locusts, thousands of them. The day proved to be a warm one, and we were drenched after 27 km. We camped at Sirena, and slept for maybe one hour due to the heat. The heat soaked our bodies, eventually causing us to feel a bit chilly, but it was so humid that we couldn’t even tell what was happening. Sirena has a covered deck for camping as well as a runway for those folks that feel like they need to be air-lifted out of the park. The beach is nearby, which we readily used to cool off our bodies.
On day two of the excursion, we hiked from Sirena to Carate, and then took a bus to Puerto Jiminez where we lavished ourselves with a beachfront room and AC!! The second day of travel was much lighter than the first. The main challenge was that a large portion of the hike was along the beach, thus preventing much sun protection. However, the beach was absolutely gorgeous! So secluded, with coves, dark and light sand, various crabs and herons, it was a delight to view. On our second day, we witnessed an anteater slapping a tree with his claws, just like a black bear! The coati rummaged through various articles on the ground for forage material. And skinks also darted up trees and into the brush as we passed. The trip to Corcovado was definitely worth the effort! The only downfalls were the heat (but hey, we needed a little challenge, right?) and the massive quantity of ticks that attached themselves to every part of our bodies. I can truthfully say that I have never had that many ticks on me, ever. I would say that there were probably somewhere around 60 by the end of day two. Leighton probably had about the same amount.
After a few days in Corcovado, we quickly sprinted up to Cartago, a cooler town with all amenities. And today, we are here. That’s about it for now. Oh, but I must get a pineapple before we leave Costa Rica—land of the BEST pineapples ever!! And, side note, we are spending the night in a Best Western with a large swimming pool (piscina) and casino. Don’t worry mom, I used my haggling skills. Pura vida!
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
Overdue Picture Post
We have been having some trouble uploading pictures to the blog but I seem to have it working now so that will be the focus of this post.
Here's one of Steph and I out for a day of sailing and snorkeling in Bocas del Toro, Costa Rica. It was a really nice day!
Steph climbing the basaltic wall in Boquete, Panama. I think they rated this route a 5.9 - it was probably close, hard for me to say - it had been a while since either of us were on a wall, but we both had a great time and climbed a few routes.
Here's me at the crux move of this one - 5.10c they said. I tried it about seven times and couldn't clear it. It was fun, but the holds were mostly upside-down there....too hard for me right now.
You can get a feel for the wall here. It was different than anything either of us have ever climbed.
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Boquete, Panama--one of my favs
January 24, 2009
For the past week we have been residing at Spanish By The River in Boquete, Panama. This place is paradise. After making a quick “supermercado” stop in David, we headed up the mountain towards Volcan Baru. In Alto Boquete, about 5 km before Bajo Boquete, we turned towards Spanish By The River. We have taken 2 hours of Spanish language classes each day this week. Estaban, our instructor, is a young man from Turrialba, Costa Rica. He definitely had his work cut out for him and excelled at the job. Reminding us about how to write and say past participles, imperfects, and pronouns, he has definitely helped my ability to speak with proper form. We are also staying in the nicest accommodations of the trip. We have a private room with private bathroom, wi-fi and computers, communal big screen tv, and communal kitchen for $25 total per night. Besides the inside amenities, there is a garden full of sugar canes, platinos, oranges, and lemons, as well as a dog, Elsa, and parrot, Pepe, which are nonstop entertainment. Pepe was found abandoned on the side of a road with a broken wing. Although he cannot fly any longer, he seems content with wandering through the fruit garden all day and doing back-flips in his cage at night.
As for the excursions this week, they have been great. We first visited Paradise Gardens, a wildlife sanctuary near Boquete. This facility had a variety of animals from monkeys to cockatoos to margays and baby sloths. Each animal had a story. Whether they had been caged by previous owners in 2’ by 4’ boxes or left there by unwanted owners, they definitely had a better life and were being prepared to return to the wild. Paradise Gardens owns a piece of land further away where they acclimate animals to their natural habitat.
We also had the opportunity to go rock climbing upon basalt formations. The horizontal and vertical slabs were definitely a challenge, but it was a very welcomed one. After a day of climbing, we decided to go to natural hot springs. We traveled to the caldera, walked near the river, and found the very warm springs. Thankfully not too developed (like the ones in Ouray), these were a real treat. A real treat, until I emerged from the water with a new stinging sensation on my leg. Throughout the night the two spots on my leg got a bit redder and a sticky matter seemed to be emerging from them. As best I can tell, after 2 days, is that I must have been sucked on by a leech. The shape of the sore is the shape of a sucker, but instead of one spot where is may have sucked, its whole body seems to have burned off the top layer of my skin. It burns like hell and is very red, and still producing an interesting sticky wet matter (like a burn). Is this normal? Docs? Leighton put some Neosporin on it and bandaged it, so hopefully the burning sensation will go away within the next few days. Today’s hike towards Bajo Mono and Sendero los Quetzales didn’t help the matter. Okay, enough about the gross stuff.
We hiked around the area today and realized that if we were ever to purchase land, this would be an ideal place. The whole region feels fairly safe. It is cool enough that you need a sweater in the evening. And, I have never seen so much beauty-waterfalls, lush vegetation, cliffs, and rushing rivers. You must only watch out for floods and landslides. This year they had a much larger flood than normal, which managed to wash out a major roadway. Hopefully we will be able to post pictures soon. If we can’t get them up on this site, check facebook. If I am not friends with you yet, feel free to add me. Well, Leighton is almost finished with making a wonderful dinner, so I better get going. I hope everyone is enjoying their winter!
For the past week we have been residing at Spanish By The River in Boquete, Panama. This place is paradise. After making a quick “supermercado” stop in David, we headed up the mountain towards Volcan Baru. In Alto Boquete, about 5 km before Bajo Boquete, we turned towards Spanish By The River. We have taken 2 hours of Spanish language classes each day this week. Estaban, our instructor, is a young man from Turrialba, Costa Rica. He definitely had his work cut out for him and excelled at the job. Reminding us about how to write and say past participles, imperfects, and pronouns, he has definitely helped my ability to speak with proper form. We are also staying in the nicest accommodations of the trip. We have a private room with private bathroom, wi-fi and computers, communal big screen tv, and communal kitchen for $25 total per night. Besides the inside amenities, there is a garden full of sugar canes, platinos, oranges, and lemons, as well as a dog, Elsa, and parrot, Pepe, which are nonstop entertainment. Pepe was found abandoned on the side of a road with a broken wing. Although he cannot fly any longer, he seems content with wandering through the fruit garden all day and doing back-flips in his cage at night.
As for the excursions this week, they have been great. We first visited Paradise Gardens, a wildlife sanctuary near Boquete. This facility had a variety of animals from monkeys to cockatoos to margays and baby sloths. Each animal had a story. Whether they had been caged by previous owners in 2’ by 4’ boxes or left there by unwanted owners, they definitely had a better life and were being prepared to return to the wild. Paradise Gardens owns a piece of land further away where they acclimate animals to their natural habitat.
We also had the opportunity to go rock climbing upon basalt formations. The horizontal and vertical slabs were definitely a challenge, but it was a very welcomed one. After a day of climbing, we decided to go to natural hot springs. We traveled to the caldera, walked near the river, and found the very warm springs. Thankfully not too developed (like the ones in Ouray), these were a real treat. A real treat, until I emerged from the water with a new stinging sensation on my leg. Throughout the night the two spots on my leg got a bit redder and a sticky matter seemed to be emerging from them. As best I can tell, after 2 days, is that I must have been sucked on by a leech. The shape of the sore is the shape of a sucker, but instead of one spot where is may have sucked, its whole body seems to have burned off the top layer of my skin. It burns like hell and is very red, and still producing an interesting sticky wet matter (like a burn). Is this normal? Docs? Leighton put some Neosporin on it and bandaged it, so hopefully the burning sensation will go away within the next few days. Today’s hike towards Bajo Mono and Sendero los Quetzales didn’t help the matter. Okay, enough about the gross stuff.
We hiked around the area today and realized that if we were ever to purchase land, this would be an ideal place. The whole region feels fairly safe. It is cool enough that you need a sweater in the evening. And, I have never seen so much beauty-waterfalls, lush vegetation, cliffs, and rushing rivers. You must only watch out for floods and landslides. This year they had a much larger flood than normal, which managed to wash out a major roadway. Hopefully we will be able to post pictures soon. If we can’t get them up on this site, check facebook. If I am not friends with you yet, feel free to add me. Well, Leighton is almost finished with making a wonderful dinner, so I better get going. I hope everyone is enjoying their winter!
Sunday, January 18, 2009
Bocas del Toro
Steph and I just had one great week in Bocas del Toro, Panama! My expectations were high for this place and it certainly didn't disappoint.
The Road to Bocas
We left Cahuita and - once we could get a break between all the semis - crossed an old, one-lane converted railroad bridge into Panama. This was a little-used border and we made it through in less than an hour - only paid about $10. The drive was beautiful, especially once we got into Panama. The road twists up and down verdant green mountains with waterfalls literally everywhere, and there were very few other vehicles cluttering up the road.
We arrived in the port town of Almirante, parked the truck, and set out on the thirty-minute water taxi ride to Bocas del Toro. The little, home-made fiberglass boat had six rows of seating, carried twenty-five souls, and was powered by a Yamaha 225 horse outboard. The ride was smooth and breezy.
Bocas Proper
Steph and I had decided to visit Bocas del Toro with the intention of attending Spanish school, and - while the Spanish school was all booked up - we found private classes with a young lady from our hostel. Steph did two classes and I did three, and I think that they went pretty well. It is certainly exciting to learn something new that you so deeply desire to know.
While in town we booked a day sailing on a trimaran (three-hulled boat). Although it was raining lightly as we walked to the boat in the morning, the rain stopped as we were boarding the boat and the wind picked up. We were able to sail the whole day - drinking beers, getting terribly sunburnt, and snorkeling the best coral I have ever seen. A bit about the coral.... All I could think as I swam just an arm's length above the vivid, living bits of various makes and models of coral was - it's like Mardi Gras!!! There was purple coral, red coral, yellow coral, long coral tubes, brain-looking coral, coral that looked like lettuce, starfish hanging on coral, schools of fish swimming in-on-around-under coral.... it was a coral party, and everybody was invited!
The captain - Chris - told us about his life as a traveler. Thirteen years ago he and his girlfriend - while in war-torn Africa - purchased a 40' catamaran in order to escape the dangers of driving through said situation...without ANY sailing experience. They learned to sail by traveling Africa and Europe, and eventually crossed the Atlantic and ended up here.
I would be leaving something out if I didn't mention the bike ride Steph and I did.... We rented bicycles and pedaled ourselves from one side of the island to the other on the islands only road - about 15 km. It was probably the hardest ride of my life! The road itself was not too bad, but our bikes SUCKED! I tried out every bike the rental guy had and picked the best one - a one-speeder with coaster brakes and cranks about to fall off. I had the "mechanic" tighten the cranks up which had the unintended consequence of leaving the brakes perpetually "on". Not wanting to make the situation even worse, I smiled and said, "Thanks!" I assumed the cranks would loosen up again and the brakes would unstick, but I was wrong. The entire ride was like riding the training bike from hell! As other bicyclists passed me on there 1980 Huffy's I looked at them with such envy - I wanted a HUFFY!!!! Needless to say, we took a taxi back from the other side of the island....
The Food Highlights
Sesame crusted, seared ahi tuna (sooo fresh and a massive amount to boot)
Spicy shrimp vindaloo (face sweating spicy)
Beef, pepper, and onion kababs (from the street meat-stick guy)
Pork wontons (purchased at the local, Asian-owned grocery)
The list could go on, but my memories grow a bit fuzzy. I will say that Bocas has had the best food of the whole trip!
The Road to Bocas
We left Cahuita and - once we could get a break between all the semis - crossed an old, one-lane converted railroad bridge into Panama. This was a little-used border and we made it through in less than an hour - only paid about $10. The drive was beautiful, especially once we got into Panama. The road twists up and down verdant green mountains with waterfalls literally everywhere, and there were very few other vehicles cluttering up the road.
We arrived in the port town of Almirante, parked the truck, and set out on the thirty-minute water taxi ride to Bocas del Toro. The little, home-made fiberglass boat had six rows of seating, carried twenty-five souls, and was powered by a Yamaha 225 horse outboard. The ride was smooth and breezy.
Bocas Proper
Steph and I had decided to visit Bocas del Toro with the intention of attending Spanish school, and - while the Spanish school was all booked up - we found private classes with a young lady from our hostel. Steph did two classes and I did three, and I think that they went pretty well. It is certainly exciting to learn something new that you so deeply desire to know.
While in town we booked a day sailing on a trimaran (three-hulled boat). Although it was raining lightly as we walked to the boat in the morning, the rain stopped as we were boarding the boat and the wind picked up. We were able to sail the whole day - drinking beers, getting terribly sunburnt, and snorkeling the best coral I have ever seen. A bit about the coral.... All I could think as I swam just an arm's length above the vivid, living bits of various makes and models of coral was - it's like Mardi Gras!!! There was purple coral, red coral, yellow coral, long coral tubes, brain-looking coral, coral that looked like lettuce, starfish hanging on coral, schools of fish swimming in-on-around-under coral.... it was a coral party, and everybody was invited!
The captain - Chris - told us about his life as a traveler. Thirteen years ago he and his girlfriend - while in war-torn Africa - purchased a 40' catamaran in order to escape the dangers of driving through said situation...without ANY sailing experience. They learned to sail by traveling Africa and Europe, and eventually crossed the Atlantic and ended up here.
I would be leaving something out if I didn't mention the bike ride Steph and I did.... We rented bicycles and pedaled ourselves from one side of the island to the other on the islands only road - about 15 km. It was probably the hardest ride of my life! The road itself was not too bad, but our bikes SUCKED! I tried out every bike the rental guy had and picked the best one - a one-speeder with coaster brakes and cranks about to fall off. I had the "mechanic" tighten the cranks up which had the unintended consequence of leaving the brakes perpetually "on". Not wanting to make the situation even worse, I smiled and said, "Thanks!" I assumed the cranks would loosen up again and the brakes would unstick, but I was wrong. The entire ride was like riding the training bike from hell! As other bicyclists passed me on there 1980 Huffy's I looked at them with such envy - I wanted a HUFFY!!!! Needless to say, we took a taxi back from the other side of the island....
The Food Highlights
Sesame crusted, seared ahi tuna (sooo fresh and a massive amount to boot)
Spicy shrimp vindaloo (face sweating spicy)
Beef, pepper, and onion kababs (from the street meat-stick guy)
Pork wontons (purchased at the local, Asian-owned grocery)
The list could go on, but my memories grow a bit fuzzy. I will say that Bocas has had the best food of the whole trip!
January 17, 2009
Throughout the past few days, we have explored Bocas del Toro on Isla Colon. This area of Panama is comprised of several islands near the Costa Rica border. Our first day was concentrated solely on leisure. Then, Leighton and I decided to take out a Catamaran into the bay for a sail/snorkel adventure. Our captain Chris, a Dutch gentleman who bought his first sail boat without a single ounce of sailing experience, navigated this ship towards the most beautiful coral reefs that I have ever seen. Most tourists take motor boats to common reefs that are used by all tour operators. Chris said that it was odd because Panamanians see him out there with his boat, but refuse to ever go check out the other reefs. Needless to say, we enjoyed staying away from the more crowded areas, and swam freely among the most exquisite coral and fish. The coral was so brilliant, comprised of every shape and color, from iridescent purple to pearl green. It was like something out of a Dr. Seuss book. Plenty of sea urchins, starfish, and barracudas were also present. Supposedly stingrays also roamed the waters, but we did not observe and of these creatures. I highly recommend taking this tour if you ever make it to Bocas del Toro—just be sure you take the Catamaran run by Marcel (the owner).
On our third day here, we decided to take a bike ride to the other side of the island, Bocas del Drago. The road consists of asphalt, sand, and mud. And the bicycle rental selection is very limited, therefore Leighton ended up on a bike that had the brake on constantly and I ended up on a bike with handlebars like thorns. Needless to say, we made it to the other side and were delighted to see hundreds of starfish in the calm waters of Bocas del Drago. Even without snorkel gear, the water is clear enough to see a couple meters and observe the wonders of “estrellas” (starfish).
Other than that, we have thoroughly been enjoying the tastes of Bocas del Toro. This town has the most unique and exquisite food selection of anywhere I have been. From mashed plantains that are then shaped into mini bowls and cooked and filled with crab stuffing, to baked apple with brie and polish sausage, to fresh ahi tuna with a bit of sour cream and cilantro on a fried wonton, this town has it all. We have also had the pleasure of attending a private Spanish class with Yorlenis, a young woman who worked at our Hostel (Hostel Heike). She has been teaching us for about two hours each day for the past few days. These classes are definitely a positive addition to our current status in Latin American countries. Tomorrow we are headed to Boquete, Panama to continue Spanish lessons at Spanish by the River, in a more mountainous setting.
One last note, if you ever stay at Hostel Heike watch out for the loud morons throughout the night. It’s crazy, people come in every hour of the night—2 am, 3 am, 4 am, 5 am, etc. turn the lights on, and begin talking loudly. It’s like they were never taught manners about what to do when other people are trying to sleep. Leighton and I were both very perturbed by being woken up numerous times and getting only about one hour of sleep. He thankfully let them know his opinion during the night. These guys staying in our room were so drunk and throwing up, bringing girls home (who does that to a hostel? Yeah, it’s soooo hot to bring chicks back to a room with people sleeping all over, not), and being generally disrespectful. Therefore, Leighton and I have decided that it’s not worth saving a few bucks for tonight and have moved into a hotel where we spent the entire morning laughing. I mean hysterically laughing at nothing, I think we must have just been so tired, that we began to lose our minds.
Alright, time to take a shower. We only have water in this room for one hour, so I better get to it. Oh yes, although it rains here every day the water seems to be not functioning in all establishments for a majority of the day. Adios for now.
On our third day here, we decided to take a bike ride to the other side of the island, Bocas del Drago. The road consists of asphalt, sand, and mud. And the bicycle rental selection is very limited, therefore Leighton ended up on a bike that had the brake on constantly and I ended up on a bike with handlebars like thorns. Needless to say, we made it to the other side and were delighted to see hundreds of starfish in the calm waters of Bocas del Drago. Even without snorkel gear, the water is clear enough to see a couple meters and observe the wonders of “estrellas” (starfish).
Other than that, we have thoroughly been enjoying the tastes of Bocas del Toro. This town has the most unique and exquisite food selection of anywhere I have been. From mashed plantains that are then shaped into mini bowls and cooked and filled with crab stuffing, to baked apple with brie and polish sausage, to fresh ahi tuna with a bit of sour cream and cilantro on a fried wonton, this town has it all. We have also had the pleasure of attending a private Spanish class with Yorlenis, a young woman who worked at our Hostel (Hostel Heike). She has been teaching us for about two hours each day for the past few days. These classes are definitely a positive addition to our current status in Latin American countries. Tomorrow we are headed to Boquete, Panama to continue Spanish lessons at Spanish by the River, in a more mountainous setting.
One last note, if you ever stay at Hostel Heike watch out for the loud morons throughout the night. It’s crazy, people come in every hour of the night—2 am, 3 am, 4 am, 5 am, etc. turn the lights on, and begin talking loudly. It’s like they were never taught manners about what to do when other people are trying to sleep. Leighton and I were both very perturbed by being woken up numerous times and getting only about one hour of sleep. He thankfully let them know his opinion during the night. These guys staying in our room were so drunk and throwing up, bringing girls home (who does that to a hostel? Yeah, it’s soooo hot to bring chicks back to a room with people sleeping all over, not), and being generally disrespectful. Therefore, Leighton and I have decided that it’s not worth saving a few bucks for tonight and have moved into a hotel where we spent the entire morning laughing. I mean hysterically laughing at nothing, I think we must have just been so tired, that we began to lose our minds.
Alright, time to take a shower. We only have water in this room for one hour, so I better get to it. Oh yes, although it rains here every day the water seems to be not functioning in all establishments for a majority of the day. Adios for now.
Tuesday, January 13, 2009
The Truck
Great care was taken when selecting the vehicle to be used for this adventure. A high-clearance, four wheel drive truck was required to give us the capabilities to ensure that road quality would not have to be a huge consideration in route planning. Comfort was obviously a major consideration as well - given our five month trip will cover approximately 12,000 miles of less than perfect roadways. Reliability, cargo room, and serviceability also all played major roles in the selection.
It was not an entirely difficult decision to arm ourselves with a Toyota 4Runner for the trip. It has more than adequate power for passing. It posses the required stout build to endure the miles and miles of bumps, potholes, and washboard. Our 4Runner also comes with all of the bells-and-whistles to keep us occupants happy.... air conditioning, power windows, comfortable seats, adequate cup-holders, storage compartments, good outward visibility.......
All that being said, for a trip like this, it needed some fortification.
The most important upgrade has probably been the suspension. The stock 4Runner suspension is set up for a gentle highway ride quality, on smoothly paved roadways. The roads south of the border are ROUGH! There are speed bumps hidden EVERYWHERE! There are HUGE potholes! The stock suspension is NOT up to the job. Luckily our friends at ARB/Old Man Emu have a great suspension upgrade package. It replaces the stock shocks and springs front and rear, increasing bottoming resistance and ground clearance. The ride is SO MUCH more controlled and the truck feels very solid.
Tires have been listed by other adventurers as one of the most troublesome vehicle components in making this trip. Some folks go as far as recommending bringing multiple spares. I think we have a leg up on the competition with our Goodyear SilentArmor tires in a size 265/75R16 - Slightly larger than stock. They are tough as nails with their Kevlar sidewall protection, quiet as any radial, and have a 60,000 mile tread wear warranty. So far we have experienced one puncture by a self-tapping screw that has been plugged and has not leaked again.
The sound-system has been beefed-up in the truck for more accurate sound reproduction, and to accept an iPod. The auto-retracting radio antenna does not often come up on the 4Runner since the radio stations down here are comparable in quality to the ones in the States. At any rate – it is at little risk of being vandalized….
The truck is equipped with security features that would not typically be found in a stock vehicle. In the cargo area we have mounted a heavy-duty steel lock box that is bolted to the unibody and secured with a MasterLock. The 4Runner also has an electronic disarm switch that I installed and hid to eliminate the possibility of anyone unwanted starting the vehicle – even with the keys… The wheels are secured with locking lugs.
So far the 4Runner has been completely reliable, kept our belongings and us safe, and met every challenge we have handed it. Thank you Toyota!
It was not an entirely difficult decision to arm ourselves with a Toyota 4Runner for the trip. It has more than adequate power for passing. It posses the required stout build to endure the miles and miles of bumps, potholes, and washboard. Our 4Runner also comes with all of the bells-and-whistles to keep us occupants happy.... air conditioning, power windows, comfortable seats, adequate cup-holders, storage compartments, good outward visibility.......
All that being said, for a trip like this, it needed some fortification.
The most important upgrade has probably been the suspension. The stock 4Runner suspension is set up for a gentle highway ride quality, on smoothly paved roadways. The roads south of the border are ROUGH! There are speed bumps hidden EVERYWHERE! There are HUGE potholes! The stock suspension is NOT up to the job. Luckily our friends at ARB/Old Man Emu have a great suspension upgrade package. It replaces the stock shocks and springs front and rear, increasing bottoming resistance and ground clearance. The ride is SO MUCH more controlled and the truck feels very solid.
Tires have been listed by other adventurers as one of the most troublesome vehicle components in making this trip. Some folks go as far as recommending bringing multiple spares. I think we have a leg up on the competition with our Goodyear SilentArmor tires in a size 265/75R16 - Slightly larger than stock. They are tough as nails with their Kevlar sidewall protection, quiet as any radial, and have a 60,000 mile tread wear warranty. So far we have experienced one puncture by a self-tapping screw that has been plugged and has not leaked again.
The sound-system has been beefed-up in the truck for more accurate sound reproduction, and to accept an iPod. The auto-retracting radio antenna does not often come up on the 4Runner since the radio stations down here are comparable in quality to the ones in the States. At any rate – it is at little risk of being vandalized….
The truck is equipped with security features that would not typically be found in a stock vehicle. In the cargo area we have mounted a heavy-duty steel lock box that is bolted to the unibody and secured with a MasterLock. The 4Runner also has an electronic disarm switch that I installed and hid to eliminate the possibility of anyone unwanted starting the vehicle – even with the keys… The wheels are secured with locking lugs.
So far the 4Runner has been completely reliable, kept our belongings and us safe, and met every challenge we have handed it. Thank you Toyota!
The beginning of a new era...or at least a new blog.
January 11, 2009
Well it is nice to finally have a proper blog. Although I will give Dustin and Leighton credit for their efforts on the last website. I am not sure about when my last blog was posted, so I will just begin with Nicaragua.
We crossed “la frontera” and due to the late start we only made it to Leon. However, this was not a disappointment, as I had been told in a previous conversation that Cerro Negro is known for having entertaining sand boarding. A girl that we met in Lanquin, Guatemala had lived in Nicaragua for a long time and recommended this excursion. Therefore, we rented boards and sleds and hiked up to the summit of the sulphorous-smelling volcano. It proved to be exciting and I loved how our guide was jamming to Mana in the car (a CD that I bought Leighton last spring in preparation for this trip).
After Leon, we then headed to Laguna de Apoyo. We drove through Managua, where violent protests are a monthly occurrence. I mentioned to the others that we should not sleep there, although it is regarded as an interesting city. Just today, January 11, Leighton and I turned on the television to witness protests taking place in Managua. There was an unfair “democratic” election, which according to Nicaraguan residents was completely rigged to have Daniel Ortega as the winner. With the influence of socialism and a hand by Russia, Nicaragua is in a bit of a political turmoil state. Needless to say, we avoided all locations where demonstrations might occur. We arrived at Laguna de Apoyo and had the pleasure of spending a few days there (The other 3 continued on, without spending one day here). As New Years approached, we spent the days hiking, sailing, swimming, and smacking a piñata. For the first time on our trip, Leighton and I saw Howler Monkeys!!! I have a new fondness for monos. One might say it is a slight wildlife obsession. As we hiked up the trail, there was a sudden loud hollar, which sounded like rabid dogs. After having recently witnessed the ability of stray dogs to form a pack and threaten others, we were a bit timid of continuing on. However, after listening for a brief period of time, I realized that this was no pack of dogs—it was monkeys!
Side note: Leighton hit the piñata with such extreme force that half of it flew into the lagoon! (he would like everyone to know that he has an extreme hatred for all piñatas)
After departing Laguna de Apoyo, we headed south to San Juan del Sur. This is a tourist town on the Pacific beach near the border of Costa Rica. Although San Juan is not the most scenic of locations, the beaches nearby have beautiful coves, white sand, and caves. I highly recommend Playa Madera to those headed in this direction. I had the pleasure of splitting from the rest of the group, finding a $7 hostel, and meeting some genuine Canadians. I completed a canopy tour, received the worst massage of my life (the woman thought that it was proper to massage my intestines even though I insisted that she not), played some pool, and did a bit of NFL gambling.
After a few days in San Juan, I then headed to the Costa Rica border via autobus. Since splitting from the group, this allowed me the opportunity to experience the typical mode of travel in Central America. And I have to say, it was pretty nice to not be hassled at the border and only pay $2.00 rather than the exorbitant amounts that we had incurred upon our previous crossings. The chicken buses pack people on like sardines, but they get you where you need to go. All in all, I think that both personal car and bus have their pros and cons. However, I might personally be a bigger fan of the bus.
Anyways, I arrived in Monteverde, Costa Rica at about 6pm and headed straight for a backpackers hostel. The next morning I headed to Santa Elena and hiked in my first Cloud Forest of the trip. The lush vegetation was gorgeous and a small amount of wildlife was present. Leighton then met up with me that afternoon. It was so nice to have him back again. However entertaining and care-free it can be to travel on your own, it is also quite comforting to have a bit of companionship. We resided at Casa Tranquilo for a few nights, while spending our days exploring giant waterfalls and doing another canopy tour. The Extremo Canopy tour was definitely worth the $40 we each spent. With thousands of meters of ziplines, a tarzan swing, and a repel, this excursion was a blast. We had each completed a canopy tour at the beginning of the month, but we wanted to experience one together. We finally used a kitchen to cook up some gourmet meals and play Gin Rummy. (we have different rules on this game, such as if you have to hold the cards in your hand until the end or not, anyone?)
We then drove to Cahuita, Costa Rica, which is our current location. Here we have explored the land and waters of Parque Nacional Cahuita (the park extends across water boundaries). We had the opportunity to take a boat out to the coral reef and snorkel amongst some beautiful tropical fish. The coral itself proved to be muy linda. Today we hiked through the park and observed more White-faced and Howler Monkeys. They are very curious animals; you must not set your belongings down unless you expect them to be tampered with. Again, I was amazed to see monkeys and slowed down every time I saw a new one. Yet, I must mention that sometimes they are not fond of humans, and will show their sharp teeth while making a hissing sound—yes, we witnessed this one today. So, although I enjoy their presence, I will keep my distance.
Tomorrow we are headed to Bocas del Toro and plan on attending Spanish Language School for about a week or more. We could both use a refresher, and find this task necessary before continuing travel. Leighton is great at understanding and my speech is sufficient, but we need someone to teach us how to do both at once. Farewell for now. I hope everyone is having a great winter back in the US. Happy New Year and Inauguration Day!
Well it is nice to finally have a proper blog. Although I will give Dustin and Leighton credit for their efforts on the last website. I am not sure about when my last blog was posted, so I will just begin with Nicaragua.
We crossed “la frontera” and due to the late start we only made it to Leon. However, this was not a disappointment, as I had been told in a previous conversation that Cerro Negro is known for having entertaining sand boarding. A girl that we met in Lanquin, Guatemala had lived in Nicaragua for a long time and recommended this excursion. Therefore, we rented boards and sleds and hiked up to the summit of the sulphorous-smelling volcano. It proved to be exciting and I loved how our guide was jamming to Mana in the car (a CD that I bought Leighton last spring in preparation for this trip).
After Leon, we then headed to Laguna de Apoyo. We drove through Managua, where violent protests are a monthly occurrence. I mentioned to the others that we should not sleep there, although it is regarded as an interesting city. Just today, January 11, Leighton and I turned on the television to witness protests taking place in Managua. There was an unfair “democratic” election, which according to Nicaraguan residents was completely rigged to have Daniel Ortega as the winner. With the influence of socialism and a hand by Russia, Nicaragua is in a bit of a political turmoil state. Needless to say, we avoided all locations where demonstrations might occur. We arrived at Laguna de Apoyo and had the pleasure of spending a few days there (The other 3 continued on, without spending one day here). As New Years approached, we spent the days hiking, sailing, swimming, and smacking a piñata. For the first time on our trip, Leighton and I saw Howler Monkeys!!! I have a new fondness for monos. One might say it is a slight wildlife obsession. As we hiked up the trail, there was a sudden loud hollar, which sounded like rabid dogs. After having recently witnessed the ability of stray dogs to form a pack and threaten others, we were a bit timid of continuing on. However, after listening for a brief period of time, I realized that this was no pack of dogs—it was monkeys!
Side note: Leighton hit the piñata with such extreme force that half of it flew into the lagoon! (he would like everyone to know that he has an extreme hatred for all piñatas)
After departing Laguna de Apoyo, we headed south to San Juan del Sur. This is a tourist town on the Pacific beach near the border of Costa Rica. Although San Juan is not the most scenic of locations, the beaches nearby have beautiful coves, white sand, and caves. I highly recommend Playa Madera to those headed in this direction. I had the pleasure of splitting from the rest of the group, finding a $7 hostel, and meeting some genuine Canadians. I completed a canopy tour, received the worst massage of my life (the woman thought that it was proper to massage my intestines even though I insisted that she not), played some pool, and did a bit of NFL gambling.
After a few days in San Juan, I then headed to the Costa Rica border via autobus. Since splitting from the group, this allowed me the opportunity to experience the typical mode of travel in Central America. And I have to say, it was pretty nice to not be hassled at the border and only pay $2.00 rather than the exorbitant amounts that we had incurred upon our previous crossings. The chicken buses pack people on like sardines, but they get you where you need to go. All in all, I think that both personal car and bus have their pros and cons. However, I might personally be a bigger fan of the bus.
Anyways, I arrived in Monteverde, Costa Rica at about 6pm and headed straight for a backpackers hostel. The next morning I headed to Santa Elena and hiked in my first Cloud Forest of the trip. The lush vegetation was gorgeous and a small amount of wildlife was present. Leighton then met up with me that afternoon. It was so nice to have him back again. However entertaining and care-free it can be to travel on your own, it is also quite comforting to have a bit of companionship. We resided at Casa Tranquilo for a few nights, while spending our days exploring giant waterfalls and doing another canopy tour. The Extremo Canopy tour was definitely worth the $40 we each spent. With thousands of meters of ziplines, a tarzan swing, and a repel, this excursion was a blast. We had each completed a canopy tour at the beginning of the month, but we wanted to experience one together. We finally used a kitchen to cook up some gourmet meals and play Gin Rummy. (we have different rules on this game, such as if you have to hold the cards in your hand until the end or not, anyone?)
We then drove to Cahuita, Costa Rica, which is our current location. Here we have explored the land and waters of Parque Nacional Cahuita (the park extends across water boundaries). We had the opportunity to take a boat out to the coral reef and snorkel amongst some beautiful tropical fish. The coral itself proved to be muy linda. Today we hiked through the park and observed more White-faced and Howler Monkeys. They are very curious animals; you must not set your belongings down unless you expect them to be tampered with. Again, I was amazed to see monkeys and slowed down every time I saw a new one. Yet, I must mention that sometimes they are not fond of humans, and will show their sharp teeth while making a hissing sound—yes, we witnessed this one today. So, although I enjoy their presence, I will keep my distance.
Tomorrow we are headed to Bocas del Toro and plan on attending Spanish Language School for about a week or more. We could both use a refresher, and find this task necessary before continuing travel. Leighton is great at understanding and my speech is sufficient, but we need someone to teach us how to do both at once. Farewell for now. I hope everyone is having a great winter back in the US. Happy New Year and Inauguration Day!
Monday, January 12, 2009
Gourmet Mac & Cheese
Here is the recipe for a dinner I made recently. Really just one man´s vision for what Mac & Cheese should be....
1 Clove Garlic
1/4 Stick Butter
1 Yellow Onion
6 Strips Bacon
2 Tbs Capers
1 Cup Heavy Cream
7 Potato Chips, Original
1/2 Lb. Swirl Pasta
Cook bacon in a pan. Remove from pan, chop, drain off most of the grease. Sauté garlic and onion in remaining grease. Remove from pan. Slowly add cheese to cream whilst heating and stirring. Add onion, garlic, and bacon. Add capers. Add butter. Heat, stir, salt and pepper to taste. Pour sauce over drained, cooked pasta, and crush chips over the top to garnish.
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Hola from Cahuita, Costa Rica!
So, Steph and I have decided for various reasons that we are not going to continue our travels into South America - at least not by car. That trip is a great one, but we feel to truly do any of the countries justice would take substantially longer than we have budgeted our time or money for. We are going to make the very best of wherever we happen to be with no true "end destination" in mind. We have spent the last week or so in tropical Costa Rica, and have been loving the Tica culture. Although it has been harder to work on our Spanish here since nearly everyone speaks English, Costa Rica has been a good change of pace. Gone are almost all of the roadside garbage fires that plagued Mexico and the majority of Central America until now. There is a booming adventure and nature tourism economy here that has provided us with plentiful entertainment. Although being a bit more expensive here, the zip line canopy tours are some of the best on the planet. Both Steph and I have done two now. Our longest span crossed on pulley was 3/4 of a kilometer! Pretty sweet. Yesterday we arrived on the shore of the Atlantic Ocean for the first time this trip. It certainly did feel a bit odd to have the ocean on our left side. This morning we enjoyed the best snorkeling of the trip. We saw many different types of fish and coral. It is really a treat to be able to sweat all day and swim in the 70+ degree ocean while I know so many of you are freezing your asses off. Oh well, not my fault. If you want to leave winter behind, Central America is the place to be!
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